Kosovo is a southern province of the Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, which is composed of Serbia and Montenegro. The country is about the size of Kentucky. It is bordered by Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, Macedonia, and Albania. Its independence, while supported by the United States and a host of other Western nations, is controversial. Still, I'm here for food not politics. To travel by tabletop to Kosovo, today, I decided on Flija for breakfast. It's one of the most typical Kosovar dishes that is mostly prepared in mountainous areas. Flija is a layered cake of crepes with a honeyed cream in between each layer. It's traditionally baked with cinders: the batter put in a pie pan, then covered with a saç - a metal dome, then baked over cinders. Recipes seemed to disagree about the contents of the batters - flour and cream - as well as how the Flija is actually made. Some recipes have you layer the batter and cream and bake all...