Christmas in Peru, as everywhere else in the Christian world, is a time of celebration and libations. The 24th of December – “ la noche Buena ” (the good night) – is a huge feast, when families gather to enjoy good food before opening their presents together after midnight. Because we were just rolling back into town after three days away, I needed something quick and easy...but still elegant. I picked a hearty, spicy Peruvian stew: Parihuela . While I cooked, the boys helped the Nonni trim the tree. Though it is similar to the French bouillabaisse from the port of Marseille, its flavors and ingredients are uniquely Peruvian. Two things guarantee a great parihuela : using fresh ingredients and serving it immediately. Traditionally a firm flesh white fish as the main ingredient, such as the center cut of a cod or sea bass. But since Dungeness crab are in season in California, I also added some for flavor, contrast, and to enhance the presentation. And my dad picked u...